Mallorca’s Salty Tales and Biking Trails

A man, clothed head to toe in white cotton, stood under a summer sun reaching over a liquid pool and gently raked fragile salt crystals floating on the surface of the water into a bin. When he spread the sparkly flakes out onto a long table, light bouncing off the snow-white piles was almost too bright to look at. This was the very fragile Flor de Sel, the “sweetest” of salts, that comes from the sea basins at Salinas d’es Trenc in Campos on the island of Mallorca.

Salt has been used in cooking and preserving for industrial, religious and therapeutic purposes worldwide for thousands of years. In kitchens today, we grind large pink sea rocks, brine with kosher salt, sprinkle black Hawaiian salt on goat cheese for a wow factor, and scatter flaky, mineral-y, unrefined salts for special touches on everything. That’s not to mention the use of Epsom salts for soaking in and salt for icy sidewalks and streets.

On Mallorca (pronounced mai-or-kuh), the largest of the Balearic Islands, during a visit to Salinas d’es Trenc—or salt pans of Trenc—a beach on the southeast coast 45 minutes from Palma, its capital, I was curious enough about this white gold to take a closer look.

Salt Built the Great Wall of China

Mark Kurlansky in his fascinating book Salt writes that “Salt is so common, so easy to obtain, and so inexpensive that we have forgotten that from the beginning of civilization until about 100 years ago, salt was one of the most sought-after commodities in human history” and that ancient China was among the earliest civilizations to cultivate and trade mined salt.

In his research, he learned that Chinese historians claim that by 6000 B.C., people harvested salt from lake surfaces in the northern province of Shanxi but “the earliest written record of salt production in China dates to around 800 B.C. and tells of production and trade of sea salt a millennia before . . .”

Much later, salt monopolies and revenues were used to build armies and structures such as the Great Wall, until the Han dynasty in 207 B.C. ended the monopolies. In 120 B.C., when “China . . . was probably the most advanced civilization on earth,” the monopolies for both salt and iron were resurrected.

Salinas d’es Trenc has some of the oldest salt pans in the Mediterranean, dating back to the Carthaginian civilization on Mallorca in the second century BCE but still much later than in China. It is one of the only eco-certified salt producers in Europe, producing 10,000 tonnes of salt annually, using only seawater, wind and sunlight.

Wetlands, Birds and Dunes Ideal

On a tour with guide Isaac Blada, it was intriguing to watch as he raked and scooped up the bright flowery flakes. We learn that its 172-hectare (425 acres) area is embedded in the Salobrar de Campos, a massive, protected wetland and home to more than 160 different species of birds, including avocets, stilts and flamingos, visible in the distance over the flats. The wetland and dune combo create ideal conditions for the formation of Flor de Sel, or salt flower, crystals.

The ecosystem is a habitat of dune strips and vegetation, such as Neptune grass, which Blada says “is an unbelievable plant for filtration.” That and the island’s mild climate, low humidity and sunlight create a paradise for the birds. The birds, in turn, help fertilize the environment, control pests and show that the area is a healthy ecosystem.

“It’s nice to see an industrial activity that can work with nature, not against it,” says Blada, a darkly tanned man who used his hands expressively while speaking excellent English. “Listen, we can hear the shelducks on the back pans.”

As the seawater is fed into the salt “mines” via 11 kilometers (7 miles) of canals and ponds, salt concentrations eventually increase. The mountains of salt on site are separated and used either to thaw ice, feed animals, make water softener tablets or table salt.

Mallorca’s White Gold; The Sweetest of Salts

However, it is only the smaller ponds that produce the Flor de Sel, the white gold of Mallorca, coveted by Michelin chefs in 28 countries. These fragile floating crystals are raked up by hand once or twice per summer before they sink. This is the purest salt, harvested manually using a centuries-old artisanal process that keeps it 100% natural, with nothing added or taken away. It contains more than 80 minerals. It has 16 to 20 times more magnesium than ordinary sea salt. It also contains twice as much potassium and calcium and less sodium chloride (ordinary salt) than other types of salt.

Likely, the salt you have on your table is highly refined, which means it is iodized as well as crushed, washed, spun, ground and dried. It may also contain agents to insure it doesn’t stick together. Small artisan producers like Salinas d’es Trenc that are raking mineral rich salt by hand are experiencing increasing popularity.

“Michelin chefs call it sweet salt – because it tastes less salty than regular salt,” says Blada, and only small amounts of the crunchy salt are needed. It’s ideal sprinkled over a plate of Trampó, a tasty Mallorcan dish of tomatoes, onions and peppers on flatbread.

Salinas d’es Trenc creates numerous deluxe blended salts here, such as sea salt, black pepper, rose petals and lemon myrtle.

 

A Salt of Many Colors

Other parts of the world have also long been involved in salt production. Ancient India had a rich tradition of salt making and trading, with significant events like the Salt March led by Mahatma Gandhi in 1930.

The United States is now the largest producer of salt, followed by China, Germany, and Canada, with India in fifth place. The U.S. is also the largest consumer, but not because Americans add a lot of salt to their food. More than half of American salt is used for deicing roads.

After trying to make salt white and evenly grained for generations, facilities are now catering to salt aficionados who want salts that are oddly shaped or of different colors. Grey salt is harvested from the coastal region of Brittany, France. Black salt, including Himalayan black salt (Kala namak) from India, is known for its sulfurous aroma. Pink salt, often seen in North American shops, is often Himalayan salt from Pakistan. Hawaii produces black or red salt and Persian blue salt is a unique salt from Iran.

Salt has been integral to Mallorca’s economy, with the wealth from salt barons and traders funding significant landmarks in Palma, such as the Cathedral of Mallorca, or Le Seu, a magnificent Gothic structure and one of the most famous monuments of the Mediterranean. At 44 metres (144 ft), its nave is the highest in Europe and a candelabra inside reveals 260 kg (575 lbs) of silver.

 

Responsible Tourism Decreed; Bacchanalian Revelry Decried

The island of Mallorca is worthy of exploration beyond its intriguing salt tours.

The growth of new high-end restaurants and hotels, along with a 2024 responsible tourism decree, is initiating a shift to attract more sophisticated income travelers, a move away from young partyers from Britain and Germany, who have long used Mallorca as a bacchanalian locale.

Culinary entrepreneurs have opened chic places like Chef Juan Pinel’s restaurant L’Atic, the attic of the Saratoga Hotel. Chef Pinel surprises with creatively intricate plates such as Carabinero Shrimp with lentils and coconut or cauliflower with hake and seaweed. Maricel Restaurant in the stunning seaside Hospes Maricel specializes in innovative dishes such as grilled scallops with aubergine ravioli, sec i torrat rice with rabbit and mushrooms. For lunchtime fare, do not miss the traditional Mallorcan fare—eggplant and zucchini with cane honey or Mallorcan fried fish—coming out of friendly 66-year-old Celler Pagès,

For late night fun, Clandestino Cocktail Club is a chic, hidden gem in Palma’s old town. For excellent rooftop views of the cathedral and port, visit Hotel Almudaina’s Sky Bar on popular Avenue Jaume III.

Stay and Stroll

For luxury stays, Hospes Maricel is a hotel in a historic palace with fabulous seaside views from the rooms and restaurant terrace. Summum Boutique Hotel, a Meliá Collection Hotel in the heart of Palma’s old quarter was once a 1570 palace. Infused with Mallorcan architecture, the rooms retain a palatial ambiance. Bridles and a massive horse sculpture in the lobby are a nod to what was once the stables of the converted palace.

Summum provides an intimate base from which to explore this laid-back Spanish city full of narrow streets, cafes, and impressive architecture. Palma’s sycamore-lined Born Avenue, once the site of jousting tournaments, has shops and eateries along a shady wide boulevard, a tranquil spot with families resting on benches or tourists walking to the colossal Catedral de Mallorca, or ‘La Seu’ in Catalan, down by the seafront. Even travelers who’ve seen their share of historic churches will appreciate the treasures inside, including the largest rose window in Europe.

Palma’s old town is a compact one km square area, making it ideal for biking or strolling while stopping to eat, shop and gawk at the city’s landmark sites, such as the cathedral and the 14^th century Royal Palace of La Almudaina, where Spain’s royals stay when in Mallorca.

Along narrow Avenue Jaume III—lined with neo-Baroque buildings and wrought iron lamps—giant watercress-filled planters add greenery under broad columned porticos while visitors shop for shoes and accessories, as well as global fashion such as Michael Kors and BOSS.

Bike Rides, Sea Views, and Salt-Sprinkled Gourmet Meals

Mallorca offers terrific snorkeling, and other watersports, as well as golf, fine dining, and hiking. Biking is especially popular.

Bike paths crisscross the island drawing thousands of cyclists a year. Because new highways were built, all the narrow old roads were freed up to make quiet and smooth pathways for bikes—which makes riding exceptional whether you are training, road cycling or biking leisurely, like I was.

On one sultry day, I took a ride with Hans Schweitl, a guide with Rad International, coasting along the edge of the Mallorca Mountains. Hans, a 49-year-old Austrian married to a Mallorcan woman, carried a mere 152 lbs (69 kgs) on his 5’11” (182 cm) frame and was an avid cyclist.

We rode past almond and lemon trees on trails redolent of lavender, wild rose and pine. We zipped out to Cala Figuera Lighthouse and expansive sea view on a bike-only trail and came across artichoke, rosemary, carob, figs and olives.

“Cyclists come for the great climate with lots of mountains and flats and quiet country roads,” said Hans, who once rode across India solo. “With pleasure cycling—as opposed to training or racing—we are not consuming the place like driving in a car. We feel the place, smell the lavender, stop and chat when and where we want, and get to places cars cannot.”

At one point, while I was flagging along a hot, dusty trail to Finca de Galatzo, Hans decided I had a “sugar gap,” a craving for another crystal white substance that rules the world, and found me a chocolate bar in a shop next to a museum called Finca de Galatzo, where we stopped for a quick look at a massive olive crusher before our return to Peguera.

Salt tours reveal Mallorca’s agricultural side

Biking past lemon and orange groves and exploring Megalithic ruins is a splendid way to spend time in Mallorca. Salt tours, such as with Salinas d’es Trenc, reveal an intriguing aspect and deeper understanding of this agriculturally rich Spanish Island in the Western Mediterranean Sea.

Salt tours can be booked at Salinas d’es Trenc. For more information on this sun destination’s options, visit SeeMallorca. Bike trips or bike-hotel-transfer combos can be booked with Rad. International.

Cathy Senecal has traveled in 47 countries, most often seeking remote locations known for hiking and biking. This is her first travel feature for the East-West News Service.