My first Turkish coffee arrived dark and steaming hot from an electric coffeemaker at Espressolab on Istanbul’s historic Istiklal Avenue. The Espressolab had a long, curved marble bar, high ceiling beams and an Art Deco espresso machine. The 20 and 30-somethings around me chatted and sipped their cappuccinos and pumpkin spice lattes from paper cups…
The Black Forest got its name from the Romans, who found the woods so dark and dense that they named it Silva Nigra, a “black forest” that suggested otherworldliness. After serving as Germany’s biggest source of lumber during the Industrial Revolution, the Black Forest’s 2,320 square miles have thinned to a shadow of their former impenetrability. Today, the area is a mix of forested mountains laced with river valleys, vineyards, lush meadows, streams, and towns with ubiquitous flower boxes overflowing with geraniums, says writer Beth Reiber. Measuring just 100 miles long and up to 25 miles wide, the forest is a cathedral for solitude that conveys feelings of contentment and remoteness as shafts of sunlight settle upon fern-lined pathways that spiral down from the summits past vineyards and orchards to medieval villages dating from the mists of time.
Travelers to the Baltic city of Tallinn immediately notice that Estonia is one of Ukraine’s staunchest allies. Perhaps that’s because until 1991 it, too, was occupied by Russians. To find out what life behind the Iron Curtain was like join a Soviet Flashback tour to visit an old hotel specifically built for guest surveillance and a recreated KGB command center.
The eminent archeologist was explaining how the discoveries at Göbekli Tepe in southeastern Türkiye were changing the way people understood Neolithic history. But most of my attention was directed toward an affectionate tricolor tabby posing coquettishly in the foreground of the ruins. This is a common occurrence in Türkiye, where an estimated five to 10 million cats, ranging from domesticated to feral, roam urban boulevards, lavish resorts, trendy shopping centers and country lanes. In Istanbul, you’ll find street-dwelling felines lurking in and around structures that include Byzantine cathedrals, spice markets and Ottoman palaces.
I’m a purist trekker when it comes to walking long-distance designated trails. I insist they be step-by-step odysseys with no skipping of sections deemed to be of lesser interest. In the summer of 2005, I hiked a portion of the Hadrian’s Wall Path National Trail that rolls across northern England. I followed a wall of tightly fitted gray stones to a high point above Crag Lough where a pair of swans drifted over the still water. It was there that I vowed to return someday and walk the whole thing. Earlier this year, I did just that. Virtually.
By Mary Bergin Yes, Virginia, there is a Santa Claus, but the original St. Nicholas was very different from what we know today. His home was on the Mediterranean Sea, not the North Pole. More pious than jolly. Wearing a cleric’s miter hat, not a festive stocking cap. For much of the world, St. Nicholas…
By Jacqueline Swartz Whether it’s your first time, or you are returning, maybe for the umpteenth time, Paris seduces. What is it about this city that makes it one of the most visited places in the world? That makes people pull up stakes and move to the City of Light. What drew painters like Degas,…
By Teresa Bitler By the time we break for lunch at a reservoir in the Extremadura region of Spain, I’m craving the local specialty. Ibérico ham, also known as Jamón Ibérico, has been a staple on my plate for breakfast, lunch and dinner since I arrived a few days ago. I don’t have to wait…
The river cruise market is expected to grow by $3,206 million over the next three years, surpassing all travel sectors. Forbes reports that industry leader Viking began with four river ships in 1997 and expanded to 79 in 2022 when it added Mississippi River cruises. River cruising is for people who enjoy learning about history, eating great food, experiencing amazing architecture, and meeting new people. Read More
By Beth Reiber The first thing you notice upon entering Herculaneum is how resplendent it is, how unapologetically it asserts itself as Rome’s resort town for the rich and famous. To be sure, you’ve seen plenty of wealthy residents and villas in your hometown of Pompeii, just 5.5 miles away. But whereas Pompeii is a…