Whales, Penguins, Oceans and Ice. Welcome to the Seventh Continent

“Good morning,” a French-accented voice softly repeats, gently waking us up with details of the ship’s location, weather conditions and plans for the day. We would hear this voice every morning while cruising to the South Shetland Islands of Antarctica. Jonathan Zaccaria, the Expedition Leader of  Atlas Ocean Voyages’ World Navigator cruise ship, was formerly a research scientist at the French Dumont d’Urville Station and the Concordia Station in Antarctica. He now helps tourists understand and experience the coldest, driest and highest continent on Earth.

Most expedition guides crossing the Drake Passage have a scientific background. They give lectures during the journey which takes two days each way. Like a classroom on water, marine biologists and ornithologists explain what makes Antarctica so unique.  They describe what species will be seen including penguins, “But no polar bears?” as one guest asked. We learn about geology and oceanography and how the currents surround the continent like a constant conveyor belt keeping out heat from other oceans while creating a distinct and sensitive ecosystem.

Tours to the Seventh Continent appeal to curious minds, nature lovers and adventurous spirits. Tourism in Antarctica began in the late 1950s when vessels heading to research stations began allowing some paying passengers. In 1969, M/S Lindblad Explorer became the first expedition ship designed to bring curious tourists to the unspoiled continent. Today, the numbers have ballooned from a few hundred people per season to more than a hundred thousand in the 2022-2023 season. There are now many options, from larger cruise ships that only sail past the continent to charter flights across the Drake for those wanting to avoid the notoriously rough ocean passage.

No Over Tourism here

The most popular are the smaller expedition cruise ships that range from basic accommodation to ultra-luxury yachts. Many will allow you to set foot on land and get close to the sights, sounds and smells of a place where no humans have ever settled permanently.

These smaller ships (less than 500 passengers) have permission to send their guests ashore via inflatable zodiac boats thanks to the creation of the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO) in 1991 and the Antarctic Environmental Protocol, still respected today by all tour operators visiting Antarctica. This protocol goes beyond the Antarctic Treaty of 1959, signed by more than 50 countries. The treaty ensures no country can make a land claim on the continent and limits the types of activities permitted. The protocol ensures that tour operators protect and preserve the environment and wildlife.

All visitors are informed of the five pillars of the protocol:

1. Protect Antarctic Wildlife
2. Respect Protected Areas
3. Respect Scientific Research
4. Be Safe
5. Keep Antarctica Pristine

Recently, visitors are instructed to put no more than the soles of your boots on the land. A terrible case of bird flu devastated bird populations and seals as well. While the virus most likely came from migrating birds, tour operators do not want to be responsible for bringing more problems to the wildlife. Staff screen articles of outerwear that guests bring on board to make sure there is no dirt or plant life that can contaminate the delicate ecosystem. Every guest will get a parka to keep, boots to borrow, and an inflatable life vest for the duration of the cruise. Boots are routinely cleaned after an expedition that includes a landing. On shore, life vests must be worn. No one may sit or put a bag down on the ground. (Photographers needing to change lenses should plan accordingly!). Persons going on a trek may bring hiking poles, either their own or ones borrowed from the ship. Poles are recommended since many hikes include traversing uneven ground.  All this gear is kept in an assigned locker in the mudroom.

Be Prepared!

One essential piece of equipment to remember are waterproof pants. Anyone sitting on the edge of a zodiac will get doused with ocean spray. A waterproof pouch with a strap for your phone or rain cover for larger cameras are useful too. Rain, however, is not a concern since the continent only receives an average of two inches per year.

The weather Gods were on our side for the two-day crossing from Ushuaia, Argentina to the South Shetland Islands that hug the northwest coast of the Antarctic Peninsula. We lucked out and experienced the “Drake Lake” where the surface of the ocean was calm. But the latitude separating South America and Antarctica is known as the Screaming Sixties. In the Age of Sail, mariners ensconced in harborside pubs often confided to those buying drinks that “there is no law below the Roaring 40s and south the Furious 50s there is no God.”

One sign of divine providence are the modern cruise vessels plying the Drake Passage. But if you are prone to seasickness or worried you might be, ask your doctor for medicated patches or prescription pills that will minimize nausea. You can pray for the Drake Lake but be prepared for the dreaded “Drake Shake.”

Smoother seas with less wind and waves may cause a thick fog as the warm air of South America hits the cooler air of the polar region. Spotting the first icebergs introduces the beginning of our adventure to the seventh continent. There is a buzz of excitement attending our first expedition – a zodiac cruise in Fournier Bay to Anvers Island. This bay was filled with curious and playful humpback whales. Strict environmental rules prevented us from approaching them beyond a certain point, but they were not shy about investigating several zodiacs up close. If your boat is one of the ones selected be prepared to get close-up photos as the whales rise to look you in the eye before diving down to show off their iconic tails.

Swimming With The Whales

The expedition guide in my zodiac, Maria Snell, works for ORCA, a whale and dolphin conservation charity in the UK, and has been studying whales for many years. She told us we were very lucky to see such majestic creatures so comfortable around humans. It represented a drastic change from when whaling was in full swing and more than 1.3 million whales were killed in Antarctic waters over a seventy-year period, pushing many species to near extinction. Thankfully, the Southern Ocean that surrounds Antarctica has been designated a whale sanctuary since 1994 and many species have had remarkable comebacks.

Saying goodbye to the whales, our ship moved on to Bancroft Bay near the tip of the horn-shaped Antarctic Peninsula. This expedition would be our first step onto a continent that was out of reach to the average tourist until recently. Stepping ashore made everyone feel like true adventurers. This was THE bucket list moment! I proudly held the flag of Antarctica with my Dad as we posed for photos with giddy grins. My Dad had recently turned 75 and never thought he’d get to experience Antarctica, so it was extra special to have him join me on this cruise to celebrate his milestone birthday. He was not alone, as there were two people celebrating a leap year birthdays on this cruise.

That adventurous spirit led 70% of us guests including myself, my Dad and a free-spirited 86-year-old woman named Grace to take a Polar Plunge into the frigid Antarctic waters.  Normally, I won’t swim unless it’s really hot, but this was a baptism of sorts, and I wanted the badge to prove it! Luckily, it was a sunny day and we were in the very protected Telefon Bay of Deception Island, an ancient volcanic caldera now filled with seawater that is accessible by a small opening on the south side. Early explorers sailed past the entrance, hence the name. Later, it became a desolate whaling station. Today, 15,000 people take the waters every year.

 

 

Preparing For A Polar Plunge

Donning our bathrobes, we filed down to where we normally board the zodiacs and waited for our turn to put on a harness before walking down more steps to a platform where staff, bundled up in parkas, stood ready to offer assistance, encouragement and photographic proof of the plunge.

Like ripping off a band-aid, it’s best to get in and out fast because nothing prepares you for how cold it will feel. I’m glad I decided to jump as close to the ladder as possible while I watched others dive headfirst or even drop their swim trunks at the last minute to REALLY get a feel for how cold Antarctic waters really are. The adrenaline rush when you get out is incredible as is the staff which is there with your bathrobe and a shot of vodka or tequila to warm you back up.

For most visitors to Antarctica the main attraction is seeing penguins in the wild. Thousands of penguins live in colonies in the South Shetland Islands and the Antarctic Peninsula while over 40 million can be found on the whole continent. Watching them waddle and hop along the rocky and snowy terrain while honking and babbling with each other made everyone smile while trying to ignore the smell and sight of their guano. Spotting them as they swim gracefully and propel themselves out of the water like dolphins (called porpoising) with such speed is amazing.

“Everyone wants to see King Penguins or Emperor Penguins because they have the flashes colors and they’re the biggest, but my favorite are the Adelies. They are super curious, always in a rush, and the white ring around their eyes exaggerates their expressions,” says Janel Saydam, an ornithologist and expedition guide on our cruise. We saw three different species with Gentoo penguins and Chinstrap penguins being the most abundant. We only saw one lone Adelie penguin because by late February and early March, most have left for their winter grounds. Early in the Spring season they are nesting and laying eggs. The chicks tend to hatch in December and January.

Penguin Paradise

At the end of February, when I was there, the chicks were molting and getting ready to leave the nesting grounds. At this time, they aren’t as cute and fluffy and might look more like disheveled teenagers but it’s the best time if you want to see leopard seals since they start hanging around the colonies more often in hopes of a meal. I joked at the end of one zodiac excursion that the only thing we didn’t get to see was a leopard seal hunting. Moments later, the opportunity came and while it didn’t end well for the penguin, it was fascinating behavior to watch and a reminder that survival in Antarctica is tough not just due to the weather conditions.

Fur seals are smaller than leopard seals and can often be seen hanging around the penguin colonies as well. Weddell seals are another species we saw but tend to be solitary. One add-on excursion offered on some cruises is camping overnight. A small group from our ship chose to have this experience and ended up spending the night on the beach next to a Weddell Seal they met at sunrise the following day.

Besides penguins, there are many fascinating bird species to keep an eye out for from small Wilson’s Storm Petrel that look like they are dancing on the surface of the water to the world’s largest flying bird, the Wandering Albatross, seen most often while crossing the Drake Passage. Antarctic Terns flew close to us with curiosity, but we were most excited to spot an Arctic Tern that has to travel over 55 thousand miles making its migration the longest of any animal in the world.

There are a lot of activities on an Antarctic cruise. Hikes normally are included but kayaking is typically an additional cost so book early since kayaking spots are limited. Marissa Dolotallas has been a kayak guide with Intrepid since 2023 and says: “Kayaking in Antarctica is a unique and thrilling experience where your paddling playground is also home to penguins, whales and seals! For an ultimate sensory extravaganza while kayaking, a sense of adventure is a must. It would also be ideal to have some basic paddling experience. That way, your attention and energy is focused on what matters most – the spectacular scenery and wildlife around you – and its healing and humbling vibes.”

My Dad and I were the last group to go kayaking on our cruise. No expedition is ever guaranteed and knowing we were in the last group was a little nerve-wracking as we were worried it might be cancelled if the weather was bad. Instead, we had the most perfect conditions in Yankee Harbor on Greenwich Island. Wearing warm layers, we are helped into dry suits, life jackets, and kayaking mitts (aka pogies). With my cellphone secured around my neck in a waterproof pouch (a must if you are using your phone as a camera), we head out on a zodiac pulling the kayaks behind us. Getting on a kayak from a zodiac is a bit challenging but with expert guidance, we manage to avoid another polar plunge. We paddle slowly as curious fur seals pop their heads up next to us and penguins fly past us, porpoising in and out of the water.  We kept paddling as the rocky mountain peaks and a glacier on the island glowed against a pink sky as the sun dipped close to the horizon. This was our last stop before making the two-day crossing back to Ushuaia and the perfect way to end our Antarctic adventure.

Beware the Drake Shake

The seas were a little rougher on the way back, but Marissa has some great tips on how to handle the Drake Shake beyond medication. “Many crew ship members swear by green apples. Some guests and guides lean on ginger. My personal means of prevention and management – dancing! Counter the mind-body-eye conflict with your own motion set to your playlist of favorite tunes.”, she says.

To keep us engaged on the voyage back, there are more lectures and the presentation of an eye-opening French documentary called “Fire and Sky” about the man who discovered how we can study past climates through ice cores and subsequently was the first to express concern about how our actions were changing the climate decades ago. This prompted a discussion on climate change and whether tourism in Antarctica was harmful. Ultimately, the expedition team felt strongly that the more people visit in a respectful way, the more people will care about Antarctica and become its ambassadors. While it may be one of the most expensive trips you’ll ever take (cruises range from $5000 to over $50,000 per person), it will be a trip of a lifetime worth every penny.

I pondered this as my eyes followed an albatross flying alongside our ship, dipping the tip of its long wing in the ocean to make a graceful turn as gracefully as a short-track speed skater. Nature has always been a place for me to recharge and appreciate the beauty and wonder of the world, but nowhere have I felt this more than in Antarctica. It will leave you seeing the whole planet in a new way and how important it is to preserve and protect it.

 

Vanessa Dewson is an award-winning photographer and travel writer based in Ottawa, Canada. A member of the Society of American Travel Writers, she has taught photography and hosted photo tours since 2012. This is her first travel feature for the East-West News Service.